On a dark winter night, when you're driving back from one of the many thermal baths scattered around south Styria and your passengers on the backseats are listening to a Spanish broadcast of El Classico, the last thing you would expect to come across is a giant neon football built along a country road. For a moment again, the sensation of being not in Mitteleuropa, but somewhere else, very far from here, passes through my mind.
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