Right in the middle of the island, where the two main streets cross each other, there's a small restaurant with few tables inside the two small rooms available (and a small "veranda" just fit for one round table). It usually takes some luck to find it open and a table where to sit. I remember that once, in the autumn season, I got to the door five minutes after the closing time and, notwithstanding the kitchen was open for the guests already sitting inside, I was told to be late. I found it quite disappointing to get back on my steps, walk the mile to the peer and sit under the waiting hut for almost an hour.
This time I was lucky. All the noisy guests were sitting outside and beside a nice group of gentle ladies talking quietly in the setting sun soaked veranda, no one else was inside. I picked my favourite corner, called for the chart and, while waiting for the dinner to be served, I pulled out my travels notebook and started taking record of the lucky event.
